As a part-time pet sitter I feed a lot of dogs, and it amazes me how differently they all eat. Some dogs eat very poorly and have to be coached or even hand-fed, while others are always so hungry that when you feed them they just gulp the kibble down without even chewing. That’s definitely not a good thing. Dogs that inhale their food tend to overeat, regurgitate what they eat, and don’t absorb the nutrients in the food as well. Deadly conditions such as bloat can also result from this type of eating.

Bloat is thought to be the number two killer of dogs after cancer, so it’s good to know about it. I recommend doing a Google search on it to get all the facts, or talk to your vet, but if your dog bolts his food down here is a simple explanation that should get you thinking. Bloat is often associated with swallowed air that occurs with fast eating. The trapped air causes the stomach to swell, and as it swells it can actually twist over. This action blocks essential blood flow into the stomach leading to low blood pressure, shock, and damage to organs. When this happens death very quickly follows – it’s that serious.

You might have to look at teaching your dog to eat differently if you think he may be in danger. Dog trainers can show you how, or you can research it on the internet. But something simple like changing out his food and water bowls can help immediately. You can now buy bowls designed specifically to prevent fast eating and drinking (gulping water down can be as damaging as food). Some of the food dishes have ridges inside that portion off the kibble so they can only eat one little bit at a time, while others have an obstacle in the middle so they have to eat around it. Water dishes now come with floating islands or just a small opening on top – these designs hide most of the water so that to get a drink the dog must work at it. This can’t help but slow him down. These dishes are also great for dogs with long ears that dangle in traditional water bowls, or to keep snouts covered in long hair dry. Keep his bowls on the floor, too, as elevating them can also contribute to bloat.

And here’s another couple of pointers on bowls: avoid cheap plastic or ceramic ones, especially if they are “Made in China.” Plastic can release chemicals, especially when heated; and go for thick plastic so it’s chew resistant. If you want ceramic, opt for high-quality porcelain that is lead and cadmium free. Both types should be dishwasher and microwave safe. Stainless steel bowls are good, but need a skid-free base. If you do your research well you should be able to find the best bowls for your dog. It may mean ordering them online as the pet stores aren’t as up-to-date on all this yet, but it’s worth the extra effort.

Some specific breeds are known to be more susceptible to bloat than others, and what I found amazing is that the list includes some of America’s most popular pets. Here’s a list of some of them:

Afghan Hound, Airedale Terrier, Akita, Alaskan Malamute, Basset Hound, Bernese Mountain Dog, Borzoi, Bouvier des Flandres, Boxer, Bullmastiff, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Collie, Dachshund, Doberman Pinscher, English Springer Spaniel, Golden Retriever, Great Dane, German Shepherd, German Shorthaired Pointer, Great Pyrenees, Irish Setter, Irish Wolfhound, Labrador Retriever, Miniature Poodle, Newfoundland, Old English Sheepdog, Pekinese, Rottweiler, Samoyed, St. Bernard, Standard Poodle, Weimaraner.

It’s summer, and most of us are vacuuming and sweeping dog hair up from everywhere. And, apart from a few breeds listed below, it doesn’t matter whether your dog is big or small, has short hair or long, it will be shedding. As most of our pets live inside with us these days, ride in our cars, and sleep in our beds, this time of year can get frustrating. So what can we do about it?

 I’ve worked with groomers for years, and not one of them believes there is any magic formula to stop dogs from shedding. It’s a natural process that happens for a reason. But although you really can’t stop it with shampoos or products with fantastic claims, there are quite a few things you can do to cut down on the hair that ends up on the carpet, on the car seat, or in the bed.

Start by always giving your dog regular baths with a good shampoo. Look at any of the pet web sites for ideas, and certainly ask groomers who always know about the latest products. Follow the bath with a good brush outside in the yard when his coat is dry. This will loosen and remove a huge amount of dead hair. When the shedding is particularly bad, daily brushing will reward you handsomely. Dogs quite like it, too. They enjoy the massage sensation, and of course the one-on-one time with you – it’s a great bonding experience. If you can’t do it yourself, it’s worth paying a groomer to do it. Just a simple bath and brush will not cost the earth, but it will save you a lot of time picking up hair. If there’s a lot of matting, cut the mats out or ask the groomer to. After they are gone, daily brushing will keep him tangle-free.

As much of the hair that drops out of your dog is undercoat, grown to protect him from the cooler months of the year, look for brushes that are dedicated to undercoat removal. Some neat ones have been developed. I use one called “The Furminator” and I’m always amazed how much hair that thing can pull out. I “furminate” my dogs daily in the summer, and not seeing all that hair in my bed later on in the day makes the time I spend tending to them all worthwhile. You can make it so much fun for them, too. Get excited when you get the brush out, brush them gently while talking sweetly to them, and always reward them with a treat they love afterwards. Believe it or not, there are treats available that claim they help with shedding. I don’t know how true that is, but if it’s a healthy treat you’ve got nothing to lose.

If you have a big, hairy beast with an undercoat that could keep him warm in the Arctic, you may have to have his coat “blown out.” This is by far best done at the groom shop, but you can buy blowers for home use. Bath him first then towel dry. Then, being careful to avoid tender areas on his body, including eyes and ears, direct the blower all over his coat, roughing it up with your other hand as you blow. You will be amazed at how much hair will come out – but be warned, it will fly all over your house, so you may want to try and do it outside if you can. I really do think it’s worth paying a groomer for this very reason.

Yes by all means check out all the latest “sensations” that say they reduce shedding, but don’t be surprised if they fail to do what they say they will. Hard work and dedication to your pet is the only thing that you can rely on. But if you know different I want to know – please leave your comments and suggestions at the end of this blog. Now get brushing!

Here are some dogs noted for shedding the least:

Airedale Terrier; Australian Terrier; Basenji; Bichon Frise; Boston Terrier; Bouvier des Flandres; Cairn Terrier; Chinese Crested; Havanese; Kerry Blue Terrier; Maltese; Miniature Schnauzer; Norfolk Terrier; Norwich Terrier; Poodle (all types); Schnauzer; Shih Tzu; Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier; Tibetan Terrier; Welsh Terrier; West Highland White Terrier; Xoloitzcuintli; Yorkshire Terrier.

I’ve heard a lot of people say that dog crates are cruel, but in my opinion when used correctly nothing could be further from the truth. They are useful to dog owners in so many ways, and I think they’re essential for puppies. I raised my first pup before I knew about crating, and he nearly drove me to the edge of reason with all his chewing and potty accidents – I’ll never do that again! Since then I’ve seen how helpful a crate can be and use one all the time, for different reasons. Here are some of them:

1. If you have more than one dog, you may need to separate them for feeding if they eat at different speeds. Rescue dogs may even be aggressive over their food as they’ve known starvation. A crate keeps them apart and safe.
2. If you have an older dog that can’t always hold his potty, and you have to go out for a few hours, pop him in a crate. Dogs hate doing their business where they sleep, and you’ll find he’ll hold on for a longer time.
3. Puppies need to be crated for the same reason while you’re house-training them. If you’ve had him out and played with him for a little while but now have to do chores, crate him or he’ll be peeing and pooping everywhere! After an hour or two let him out and take him straight outside for his potty. He’ll soon get the idea. If you have to leave the house, he must be contained somewhere, so why not make it a warm and inviting crate with a nice dog crate pad, safe chew toys, and a piece of your clothing to comfort him while you’re gone? You’ll very soon find that he sees the crate as his special place, and will go and sit in it all the time to play and rest. He’ll feel safe and secure in it, and you’ll have peace of mind that he’s not ruining your carpet or eating the TV cable! Never leave a pup crated for longer than four hours to start with; if you’re at work get someone to come over and let him out. If he’s left too long he’ll have to potty where he is and that sets back your training.
4. If you don’t want your dog to sleep in the bed with you, train him to sleep in a crate. It should be well decked out with a blanket and toys and can be in your bedroom. That way he can be near you but not on you. Try and do this from day one – he may cry a little to start with but don’t go to him and he’ll settle down. Dogs love routine, and before you know it he’ll be happily running into his crate every bedtime.
5. If you have to take your dog out in the car to the vet, groomer, or out for fun, he and you will be much safer if he’s in a crate in the rear of the vehicle. If a dog is loose in the car and you have to slam on your breaks, he becomes a missile and you could both end up injured or worse. No one wants that.
6. If it’s a beautiful day, and you want to give your dog some fresh air but can’t supervise him, carry his crate out into the back yard and let him enjoy the weather. Knowing he is safe inside is worth so much. Never let your dog wander around an unfenced yard alone, before you know it he’ll be off exploring – and he doesn’t know the difference between a yard and the road.

Yes, your crate is truly your friend – and your dogs. But remember never to put him in it as a punishment, it should always be associated with good things or he’ll avoid going in it. These are just some of the great ways dog crates can help you with your pet. Once you bring one home you’ll wonder how you ever managed without it.

I just rescued five puppies that someone had dumped in the middle of the road. It was hard work, but within a week I had found great homes for all of them. Of course, in the meantime, I got to play with five adorable puppies, and for a dog-freak like me that was a lot of fun. But the one thing that certainly wasn’t fun was how often they peed and pooped on my carpet! I started their house-training immediately, but we had many accidents.

I put blankets down on the floor in my den and then kept them in big crates for the most part, but as soon as I let them out of their dog crates the first thing they did was their potty – of course! So in between all the playing, came the cleaning, and without one product I would have been totally lost – or my carpet would have been. I’m talking about my new best friend, my enzyme spray, and as someone who always has at least three dogs in the house, I don’t know how I lived without it!

Enzyme sprays are a relatively new product on the pet waste market. I heard about them through word of mouth only recently. And for me they really are miraculous. If a pet urinates, defecates, vomits, or bleeds anywhere on your carpet, tile, or wood flooring, just soak up the mess with a paper towel, spray the affected area with the cleaner, wait for the stated time, then wipe again – and lo and behold the mess is completely gone. Not only the ugly stain, but also the nasty odor. It really does work like magic. The product can also be used on furniture, clothing, car interiors, beds, linens, blankets, cages, and crates.

So how does this wonder spray work? Simply put it contains harmless, live bacteria that feed off any organic matter they come into contact with – they just eat it right up thereby removing all traces of it. There are no lingering smells for pets to find and pee on again, and no forever marks on your best rug. I used a lot of it in that week while I had the pups, but it was worth every penny.

You can find enzyme sprays in the grocery store now for use around the home, but I think it’s best to buy the type that is recommended for pets if you will be using them for pet mess – that way you can be sure they will be safe to use around them. These are generally only found in pet stores or from an online pet store. There are quite a few types available, so shop around and find the best deal. But just like most things in life, you get what you pay for, so getting the very cheapest may not always be the best way to go.

The product I use is called Nature’s Miracle, but I haven’t tried any other kind yet. I certainly urge you to give an enzyme spray a go if you’ve never heard of them before, and I’d love to hear back from you with your results. Just post a comment at the end of this blog and share your experiences with your fellow readers. We’d all appreciate it.

As for the pups, I miss them, terribly, but fortunately the only thing I have left to remind me of them is their photographs!

We’ve all seen the cute ad on TV with the puppies at summer camp. It makes a great point because fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes are not only irritating to a dog or cat, they can also infect them with diseases. Depending on where we live, most of us need to start some kind of insect control on our fur-babies well before we get into the summer months.

Getting advice from your vet is always the best place to start. They normally recommend topical application of a product that will keep your pets free of bugs for a whole month. There are a few different kinds, but avoid those available in the grocery store as they are inefficient at best, and harmful to your pet at worst. Your vet will be able to sell you what they have in stock, but because they are non-prescription you can also shop around on the Internet for better prices once you have the brand name.

I’m also exploring natural bug prevention. Garlic is a known insect repellent and some companies offer it in tablets that they claim take the place of the chemical applications. I treat two of my three dogs with Frontline Plus, and give my youngest one of these garlic tablets daily. So far, no bugs, but I won’t be convinced until summer is in full swing. I’ll be sure to give you all an update in a few months, so watch this space. If there is ever a natural alternative to a chemical that works, I’m on it!

Heartworm prevention is a year-round necessity in most states. Heartworms come from mosquito bites so use your judgment on when you need them, or ask your vet. As a prescription is needed for these tablets, written only after a blood test is performed, you do need to see a vet to obtain them. I buy mine from the vet because I want to ensure I’m getting the real deal, but you can ask for a prescription and fax this to an Internet store if you don’t mind taking the risk that you may not get what you pay for.

Keeping your pets free of bugs is very important, but don’t forget all the other health essentials. To keep them in tip-top shape for life take them to see a vet at least once a year for a check-up and to receive their shots. Prevention is much better than cure, and regular physicals ensure that any problems are caught early. As well as testing for heartworms, a vet will also do a fecal test to check for other worms. If he or she finds them, administering a simple pill will cure the problem. A rabies shot is mandatory by law in most states, given yearly or three-yearly, and a booster shot (DHLPP) to help prevent other diseases is recommended. Current thinking is that these shots go for longer than a year, and some vets offer a service called “titering” which tests the levels of the vaccines in the pet thus indicating whether the shot is needed or not. This is a great option, but more expensive. Although most people opt for the yearly vaccinations, just be aware that there are choices if you don’t want to over-vaccinate your pet.

Things are a little different if you have a kitten or a puppy. They need three sets of shots before they are totally immune. Until they have them all keep them away from other animals as best you can to protect them from disease. Your vet will advise you on what you need and when. If you have your pet groomed regularly, or kennel it when you leave home, you will also need to get it immunized against bordetella (kennel cough), an airborne infection that can spread when animals get together in groups. This is given in the form of drops up the nose or a shot. Once every six months is the recommended timeframe, although some believe once a year is sufficient. Cats should receive an additional shot to protect them from feline leukemia.

Last but not least is to have your pet spayed if it’s a female, or neutered if it’s a male. There are health advantages to “fixing” your pet; it will stop your male from wandering and potentially getting hit by a car or getting lost; and it will stop the birth of unwanted puppies if your male gets out and impregnates an unspayed female. With millions of healthy, sweet dogs and cats getting euthanized every year because there are no homes for them, you should make sure that you don’t add to the problem.

Knowing that your pet is protected from disease and cannot contribute to pet-overpopulation brings peace of mind, and leads to a long and healthy relationship between you and your companion animal.